How to Winterise a Motorhome: Steps, Importance and Impact on Resale Value

Winterizing your motorhome every year is essential because it protects long-term value, keeps you safe, and saves you from costly repairs. 

A proper routine touches every system: the water tank, drain valve, drain tap, shower head, toilet system, and flush water supply tank; the leisure battery and electrical equipment; the fuel tank, coolant, and gas heaters like a Truma Ultrastore boiler or older Carver boiler; and the structure, seals, soft furnishing, and tires.

Insurers and warranties often exclude frost or ice damage to plumbing, which means winterization is your responsibility, and it’s important you get it right.

Plan an afternoon for your first attempt, and each year you’ll notice it becomes quicker, of course only if you are consistent. Regular care stops mould growth, water ingress, and hidden odors that can hurt resale value. Remember, batteries can self-discharge in as little as 2–3 weeks, leading to sulfation if ignored. A careful wash, wax, and breathable cover prevent algae and reduce spring clean-up, while tarpaulins put your motorhome at risk of abrasion and condensation. In this article, we’ll focus on how to get it right and keep your motorhome in the best shape all year round.

What Is Motorhome Winterisation?

Motorhome winterization is a preventative maintenance protocol designed to reduce risks caused by freezing, moisture, corrosion, and prolonged inactivity across all major onboard systems.

It applies to the plumbing and water system, including the water tank, drain valve, drain tap, shower head, flush water supply tank, carbon filter, and toilet system with its toilet cassette. It also protects HVAC units such as a Truma Ultrastore boiler or older Carver boiler, DC electrical equipment, the leisure battery, internal combustion engine and fluids, LPG supply, structural seals, tires, and security fittings. For storage, the process emphasizes full drain-down, air purge, and the circulation of propylene-glycol RV antifreeze through potable circuits. For winter use, the focus shifts to heat retention, insulation, and active freeze protection such as tank heaters and pipe wraps. Because residual water can remain in tankless or hydronic coils, antifreeze circulation is critical where blowing out alone is insufficient.

Why Is Winterizing Your Motorhome Essential?

Winterizing your motorhome is essential because unprotected systems fail quickly when exposed to freezing temperatures. Even half-inch water lines can split after only a few hours below 32 °F, leaving pumps and valves damaged when you attempt to recharge the water system in spring. Residual water left in a flush button circuit or wash water line can lead to cracks you won’t see until pressure builds. Without maintenance charging, a leisure battery can discharge in just two to three weeks, causing sulfation and shortening its life. Tires suffer flat-spotting under static loads; adding 3–5 PSI or rotating them from time to time prevents long-term damage. Moist winter interiors with soft furnishing encourage mould growth unless you ventilate with a steady flow of air. Propping the fridge door, emptying tanks, and fitting a breathable cover all reduce water ingress and odor. Insurers often exclude frost damage, so prevention is your duty. Visible deterrents like a steering wheel lock rated Sold Secure also protect your vehicle during storage, whether at home or in a facility such as Green Hill Farm Caravan and Camping Park. Now that you know how important it is to keep your motorhome winterized, you should also be familiar on the right time to do it because this matters a lot as well. 

When Should You Winterize a Motorhome?

You should winterize a motorhome before the first forecasted hard freeze or when overnight temperatures are expected to remain at or below 32 °F for consecutive nights. This is the clearest trigger, because even a small amount of residual water in a drain tap, drain valve, or flush water supply tank can freeze, expand, and rupture fittings. If you store the vehicle indoors above freezing, you can delay some plumbing tasks, but the fuel tank, tyres, and electrical equipment still need attention. For those taking short winter trips, you can keep the interior around 50 °F with mains power heaters and insulated tanks, or re-winterize after two to three idle days in freezing conditions. It’s best to carry out full winterization in early or mid-autumn, when the work is cleaner and safer. Acting early ensures your water system, leisure battery, and soft furnishing remain protected through prolonged inactivity. Winterizing your home without knowing the right temperature to operate at is just a waste of time, so let’s discuss that in the next section. 

What Temperatures Trigger Winterization to Prevent Freeze Damage?

You should treat 32 °F as the point at which winterization becomes non-negotiable, because pipes in unheated bays can freeze even faster once ambient dips into the 30 to 25 °F range for several hours. Unprotected underslung tanks, shower head lines, and toilet cassette connections are especially vulnerable at −1 to −4 °C. Wind accelerates cooling, drawing heat away from the water tank and floor-level components through conduction, while humidity contributes to water ingress that later freezes. If you use a Truma Ultrastore boiler or Carver boiler, remember that trapped water inside coils is highly sensitive to these conditions. To stay safe, apply a margin of error and winterize before the first sub-freezing night when exposure is high. This way, you preserve the wash water system, prevent mould growth, and avoid spring repairs. Pairing a breathable cover with regular checks from time to time ensures both structure and tyres are ready when winter finally sets in.

What Does Motorhome Winterization Involve Overall?

Motorhome winterization touches every system in your vehicle, from the plumbing and water system to the security setup at the storage site. You’ll drain the water tank, open each drain valve and drain tap, then blow out lines at 20–30 PSI to clear residual water before circulating propylene-glycol antifreeze. The water heater must be bypassed, whether you have a Truma Ultrastore boiler or a Carver boiler, so you don’t waste 30 liters of fluid. Appliances such as the outside shower head, flush water supply tank, and toilet cassette need separate treatment, and carbon filter housings should be emptied. The leisure battery and other electrical equipment require float charging with mains power or removal for warm storage. Engine and fluids are checked, including coolant and washer fluid, while the fuel tank should be filled to reduce condensation. Propane cylinders are isolated and stored upright. Finally, you wash, wax, fit a breathable cover, inflate winter tyres, and secure the motorhome with a steering wheel lock and Sold Secure devices.

What Are the Different Stages of Motorhome Winterization?

The process unfolds in a structured sequence, beginning with preparation and ending with routine storage checks. Each stage matters because missing one creates weak points that can lead to water ingress, mould growth, or premature wear.

The main stages of motorhome winterization include:

• Site and safety prep: Position on firm ground, chock wheels, and confirm access to each drain tap.
• Drain and clean tanks: Empty the water tank, open all valves, and rinse to clear wash water.
• Water-system protection: Blow out lines, bypass the heater, and add PG antifreeze through fixtures.
• Appliances and traps: Treat the shower head, flush button circuits, and toilet system lines.
• Cassette and waste tanks: Rinse the toilet cassette and lubricate seals lightly with olive oil.
• Electrical and batteries: Charge the leisure battery or maintain it with mains power.
• Engine and fluids: Fill the fuel tank, check coolant, and top winter washer fluid.
• Gas isolation: Shut bottles, store cylinders upright, and cap regulators.
• Interior control: Stand soft furnishing cushions upright, ventilate with steady flow of air.
• Exterior and tires: Wash, wax, fit a breathable cover, inflate tyres, rotate time to time.
• Storage site and security: Choose a safe location such as Green Hill Farm Caravan and Camping Park, fit a steering wheel lock, and add Sold Secure devices.
• Monthly checks: Visit the motorhome to inspect for mould growth, battery charge, and overall condition.

How Do You Drain and Protect the Motorhome’s Water System for Winter Storage?

To prepare a motorhome for winter storage, you need to drain the water tank, purge the water system with compressed air, bypass the water heater, circulate propylene-glycol antifreeze through fixtures, remove filters, and service the toilet system and waste tanks. This sequence prevents residual water from freezing in vulnerable areas such as the flush button circuit, shower head hose, or flush water supply tank. It also ensures that the Truma Ultrastore boiler, Carver boiler, and connected carbon filter housings are safe during prolonged inactivity. By following a consistent order; drain, blow-out, bypass, antifreeze, filter removal, and waste treatment, you reduce the risk of water ingress, mould growth, and costly repairs when spring arrives. There are seven key steps in this process, each designed to protect specific components while keeping the entire water system balanced for long-term storage. Keep reading.

How Do You Drain the Fresh Water Tank and Open All Faucets?

Draining the fresh water tank is the foundation of winterizing because it removes most wash water before you clear the lines. Position the motorhome on leveling ramps so gravity helps purge the dregs. Wearing gloves, place a container or hose under the drain valve or drain tap and open it fully. Inside, open all faucets and set mixers to the mid-position so both hot and cold sides vent. Briefly run the pump until the system goes dry, but stop quickly to avoid burnout. Leave taps open through storage to allow a natural flow of air. Remove the shower head and hang the hose so water drains freely, and don’t forget the external shower point near the side panel. This step protects fittings, prevents water ingress damage, and ensures a cleaner start when you refill in spring.

How Do You Blow Out Water Lines With Compressed Air?

Blowing out the water lines clears residual water pockets that remain after draining. Fit a blow-out plug to the city-water inlet and connect it to a compressor regulated between 20 and 30 PSI. Begin at the lowest outlets closest to the pump, then progress to higher fixtures, cycling each faucet through hot and cold. This sequence ensures the entire water system, including lines to the toilet cassette and flush button is cleared. Open the low-point drains until only air exits, then close them. Never exceed 50–60 PSI, as over-pressurizing can crack fittings and stress appliances such as a Truma Ultrastore boiler or hydronic coil system. These units are best protected with antifreeze circulation rather than air alone. 

Do You Need to Bypass the Water Heater Before Winterizing Lines?

Yes, you must bypass the water heater before pushing antifreeze through the water system. Without a bypass kit, the heater can hold up to 30 liters of liquid, which wastes costly propylene glycol and adds hours to the spring flush. A bypass routes flow directly into the hot circuit, protecting the system while saving fluid. Some heaters, such as a Truma Ultrastore boiler or a Carver boiler, have automatic dump valves that release water around 41 °F, while others rely on manual drain valves. Once the bypass is set, let the heater cool, open the P&T valve to relieve pressure, and remove the anode or drain plug to empty. This step ensures that residual water cannot freeze, protecting fittings from cracks and preventing water ingress during prolonged inactivity.

How Do You Add RV Antifreeze to Lines, Traps, and Fixtures?

RV antifreeze is a non-toxic propylene glycol solution designed to slush without expanding, making it safe for potable water lines. Disconnect the pump inlet and insert a short pickup hose into the PG container, then run the pump until pink liquid appears at each fixture, starting with cold and moving to hot. Work systematically through sinks, the shower head, the outside shower, and finally the toilet system. Add one to two cups into every P-trap and flush about two cups into the toilet cassette tank, leaving another cup in the bowl to protect the seal. Remember the flush button and flush water supply tank if they connect to the main water system. Small RVs often need two gallons, while larger Class A units with washers or dishwashers may require four to five gallons, plus extra per appliance. Never dilute PG, as weakening the solution reduces freeze-burst protection.

What Should You Do With Water Filters Before Winter Storage?

You should always remove water filters before winter storage, because cartridges and housings can crack or harbor bacteria if left damp. Take out carbon filter elements, UV cartridges, and any inline filters connected to the water tank or system. Drain the housings completely, label each filter with its flow direction and installation date, and store them indoors in sealed plastic bags. Keep the storage area dry and above freezing to preserve cartridge life. In spring, reinstall the filters after sanitizing the system with fresh wash water. Mesh pump grit screens don’t typically trap residual water but should still be cleaned while the system is dry.

How Do You Winterize the Water Heater Safely?

Winterizing the water heater means draining it completely and bypassing it so antifreeze never enters the tank. This step is essential because filling a Truma Ultrastore boiler, a Carver boiler, or any six-gallon unit with propylene glycol can waste up to 30 liters unnecessarily. Begin by switching off all power sources and allowing the unit to cool. Open a hot tap to let cold water replace hot, reducing pressure in the water system. At the heater, carefully lift the P&T relief valve, then remove the anode rod or drain plug to release residual water. Once drained, engage the bypass kit to route flow directly to the hot circuit. Leave the drain open to dry during prolonged inactivity. For tankless or hydronic systems, circulate antifreeze, as air alone won’t clear internal coils. By keeping PG out of the heater, you protect the tank, save money, and prevent water ingress issues.

How Should You Prepare Cassette Toilets and Black/Gray Waste Tanks?

Preparing waste tanks and cassette toilets ensures seals remain flexible and odors stay controlled throughout storage. Start by emptying the black tank first, then the gray tank to flush the outlet with wash water. For the toilet cassette, rinse thoroughly using a warm tank-cleaner solution and drain through the valve. Lubricate the blade seal with a wipe of olive oil or a purpose-made spray to prevent sticking. Leave all valves closed after cleaning to stop backflow or water ingress. Add a small quantity of propylene glycol, one to two cups into the tanks, and pour another cup into the bowl to protect the seal during prolonged inactivity. For cassettes, leaving the blade cracked slightly during drying prevents it from sticking, but always close it for long-term storage. Now that we’ve covered the steps on how to drain the water system of your motorhome, the next steps is highlighting mistakes you shouldn’t make when adding RV antifreeze. 

What Common Mistakes Should You Avoid When Adding RV Antifreeze?

The most common mistake is diluting propylene glycol, which reduces its freeze-burst protection. You should also avoid forgetting small but critical components such as the outside shower head, the flush button circuit, or ice-maker loops. Another error is over-pressurizing when blowing out the water system, pressures above 50–60 PSI can damage fittings and sensitive appliances. If you fail to bypass the heater, you may waste 30 liters of antifreeze and face a lengthy flush in spring. Neglecting to dose P-traps and the toilet system dries out seals, leading to leaks and odors. Missing low-point drains leaves residual water pockets that freeze and crack fittings. Finally, never use automotive antifreeze, as it contaminates potable water lines.

How Should You Winterize the Water Heater Specifically?

Winterizing the water heater involves draining, depressurizing, bypassing, and drying it so that residual water cannot freeze inside the tank. This protects fittings, saves antifreeze, and avoids unnecessary spring flushing. 

Here is a list of seven steps in this process, each addressing safety, drainage, and correct isolation.

1. Power Down and Cool: Switch off mains power and gas controls. Allow the heater to cool completely before handling to avoid scalds or thread damage.
2. Relieve System Pressure: Open a hot tap briefly to replace hot with cold water. At the heater, lift the P&T relief valve to release pressure safely.
3. Remove Anode or Plug: Use the correct deep socket to remove the anode rod or drain plug. Expect an initial surge of wash water.
4. Drain Fully: Let the water heater empty until no residual water remains. Tilt slightly if needed to clear dregs.
5. Engage the Bypass: Set the bypass valves to route antifreeze through the hot circuit without filling the tank.
6. Dry and Vent: Leave the drain open during prolonged inactivity, allowing a natural flow of air to dry the interior.
7. Confirm No Antifreeze Entry: During system antifreeze circulation, verify that no pink liquid exits the heater. If it does, recheck bypass valve positions.

How Do You Winterize a Motorhome for Storage (Beyond the Water System)?

Winterizing beyond plumbing addresses fuel, batteries, seals, tires, interior, and security. These steps protect against mould growth, water ingress, and mechanical wear. There are ten important steps to follow.

1. Gas and Propane: Close cylinder valves, disconnect regulators, and cap pipework. Store cylinders upright in a ventilated space if required. Propane is more reliable in winter, but bottles must always be shut off.
2. Engine and Fluids: Fill the fuel tank to limit condensation. Check coolant protection to −10 to −15 °C and top washer fluid with antifreeze.
3. Batteries and Electrical Equipment: Maintain the leisure battery with mains power float charging every few weeks. If off-site, remove and store warm, or fit solar panels ≥40 W.
4. Exterior and Seals: Wash, wax, and inspect for cracks. Fit a breathable cover to prevent water ingress; never use a tarp.
5. Tires and Chassis: Inflate to specification or slightly higher. Leave the handbrake off, chock wheels, and rotate 90–120° time to time. Fit winter tyres or a tyre chain if planning cold-weather use.
6. Interior and Odor Control: Remove food, stand soft furnishing cushions upright, and allow a steady flow of air. Use anti-damp crystals or a dehumidifier if mains power is available.
7. Fridge and Freezer: Clean thoroughly, remove shelves, and prop doors open to prevent mould growth.
8. Security: Install a Sold Secure steering wheel lock, consider alarms or trackers, and shut blinds to reduce visibility.
9. Storage Site: Choose hard standing at a managed site such as Green Hill Farm Caravan and Camping Park. Ensure vermin control and CCTV if possible.
10. Monthly Checks: Visit the motorhome from time to time to check the drain valve, battery charge, seals, and for signs of mould or pests.

How Do You Secure and Shut Down the Gas/Propane System?

Winterizing the gas system prevents leaks and ensures safety during prolonged inactivity. Start by closing all cylinder valves completely. Disconnect clip-on regulators and cap open pipework to avoid water ingress or dirt. If site rules require, remove cylinders and store them upright in a ventilated location. Onboard tanks should be isolated with their dedicated shut-off valves. Perform a leak check before leaving the vehicle, using soapy water on connections. Cover appliance intake and exhaust vents to deter pests and weather. Although propane is preferable for cold-weather camping, cylinders must always remain shut during storage. 

How Do You Protect the Engine and Vehicle Fluids for Winter?

Start by verifying that coolant strength provides protection down to −10 to −15 °C. If an oil service is due, replace it before storage so contaminants don’t sit in the engine. Fill the fuel tank fully to minimize condensation and add stabilizer if you expect storage to last more than six months. Top the washer reservoir with antifreeze-rated wash water to prevent line cracking. Diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) should be kept fresh, as it can degrade in cold. During storage, it’s best not to idle; instead, once a month drive the motorhome for 20–60 minutes on a dry day to reach full operating temperature. This cycles the A/C, clutch, and brakes while reducing mould growth and preventing water ingress.

How Do You Maintain and Store Leisure/House Batteries Over Winter?

Maintaining the leisure battery correctly prevents sulfation and ensures the water system, toilet system, and electrical equipment are ready in spring. You have several options: leave the battery on float charge with mains power, remove it for warm indoor storage, or maintain it using a solar panel rated at least 40 W. Always target a state of charge above 80 percent, and never let voltage drop below 12.0 V. For LiFePO₄ batteries, remember they cannot be charged below 0 °C; warm the cells first or use built-in heaters. If site rules at a place like Green Hill Farm Caravan and Camping Park forbid removal, drive the motorhome for two to three hours every few weeks, or connect a smart trickle charger from time to time. 

How Do You Protect the Exterior, Roof Seals, and Tires During Storage?

To protect the exterior of your motorhome, begin with a full wash to remove road grime and salt, then apply a protective wax coat across the body and roof. This barrier limits water ingress and reduces mould growth when the unit sits through prolonged inactivity. Inspect and refresh sealant around joints, rooflights, and windows, since cracked seams allow residual water to seep inside. Once clean, fit a breathable cover with a soft underside to shield paintwork and soft furnishing from UV damage while allowing the flow of air to prevent condensation. Tires need equal attention: inflate to specification or raise by 3–5 PSI above factory recommendation, release the handbrake, and secure with chocks. Rotating tire positions halfway through winter reduces flat spots. Using wheel covers or moving to indoor storage adds another layer of protection against winter tyre stress and UV cracking.

Should You Use a Breathable Cover or Store Indoors?

Indoor storage offers the best protection, keeping the bodywork and seals safe from freeze-thaw cycles, water ingress, and UV. If you must store outdoors, always use a breathable cover with a soft lining, fitted tightly to avoid chafing during wind. Avoid tarpaulins, since they trap moisture and accelerate mould growth. Before covering, clean and dry the motorhome thoroughly, including the roof and underbody. By doing so, you minimize long-term surface damage and keep the exterior fresh when you return to it frequently.

How Do You Inspect and Maintain Roof and Window Seals?

Roof and window seals are common points of water ingress, so inspection should be done every few months during storage. Walk the perimeter of the roof, checking around vents, joints, and rooflights for hairline cracks or peeling sealant. Clean the surfaces with mild wash water, then reseal using RV-compatible sealants where needed. In exposed sites, fitting winter covers over fridge vents helps block debris and improves insulation.

How Do You Care for Tyres and Wheels in Long-Term Storage?

Tires bear static loads for months, which increases the risk of flat-spotting and cracking. Inflate them to the recommended specification or slightly higher by about 3–5 PSI, and cover with UV shields to reduce sunlight damage. If your storage allows, raise the vehicle on approved jacks or rotate the wheels by 90–120 degrees mid-season. Leveling blocks and chocks help distribute weight evenly while leaving the handbrake off prevents binding. Even with good tread, plan to replace tires every five to six years, since rubber hardens with age. 

How Should You Clean the Interior and Refrigerator/Freezer Before Storage?

Remove all food from cupboards, the flush water supply tank, and the refrigerator. Sanitize the fresh water tank with a mix of one cup of bleach per fifty liters, then rinse thoroughly through every drain tap and flush button circuit. Wipe down shelves, drawers, and the shower head with mild wash water. Leave fridge and freezer doors propped open, and remove shelves to maintain a steady flow of air. Stand cushions and other soft furnishing on edge, allowing ventilation to reduce moisture build-up. Use anti-damp crystals or a small dehumidifier if mains power is available. Finally, fit mesh over vents and entry points to block pests. These steps protect the toilet cassette, carbon filter, and other systems from damage while ensuring the motorhome interior stays fresh.

How Should You Clean and Protect the Exterior Before Storage?

Start with a full top-down wash using degreaser on stubborn marks, followed by a rinse that includes the underbody, especially if you’ve driven on salted winter roads. Once clean, apply a high-quality wax or seasonal protector to create a barrier against weathering and mould growth. Pay close attention to seams, lights, and areas around the drain valve for trapped dirt. Lubricate door locks and apply silicone to hinges for smooth function. Rubber window seals benefit from a light coat of silicone grease or talc, but avoid petroleum-based products that can degrade the material.

Where Should You Store a Motorhome Over Winter?

The best option for winter storage is an indoor, climate-controlled facility that protects against water ingress, UV exposure, and mould growth. If this isn’t available, a covered or hard-standing site with CCTV, vermin control, and sold secure access provides good protection. A breathable cover adds extra defense in outdoor settings, but always clean and dry the motorhome first. On-driveway storage is the most convenient, offering easy access to the fuel tank, leisure battery, and electrical equipment. However, it requires visible deterrents like a steering wheel lock and ideally access to mains power for battery float charging. Regardless of where you store, look for a site that allows regular checks, lets you rotate winter tyr and tyre chain–ready wheels, and ensures a stable flow of air. 

How Do You Deter Theft and Improve Security During Winter Storage?

Deterring theft during storage means making your motorhome a less attractive target and ensuring recovery is possible if it’s taken. You should always use visible deterrents such as a steering wheel lock, wheel clamps, and upgraded door and window locks. These devices act as a first line of defense, signaling that your vehicle is protected. Complement them with alarms and discreet trackers that help authorities locate the vehicle if stolen. Remove all valuables, including small electrical equipment, and keep cupboards open to show there is nothing inside. Record the serial numbers of major appliances like the Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler. For added peace of mind, consider after-theft recovery systems and store the motorhome on a sold secure facility if possible.

How Often Should You Check on a Stored Motorhome During Winter?

You should check on your stored motorhome about once a month, even under a breathable cover or in an indoor facility. A regular visit allows you to run through a quick checklist that prevents small issues from becoming major problems. Check the leisure battery charge level, top it up with mains power if available, and ensure the fuel tank remains stable. Look for signs of damp or mould growth around seals, soft furnishing, and cupboards. Inspect the water system for leaks or residual water near a drain valve or drain tap. Test tire pressures on your winter tyr or tyre chain–ready wheels, and confirm the cover is secure with no chafing. Walk around to spot pest activity or water ingress, and check locks and alarms for proper function. 

How Do You Winterize a Motorhome for Living in It All Season?

Living in your motorhome through the cold months requires a different strategy than simple storage. Instead of draining and shutting down, you adapt the water system, heating, and structure to withstand prolonged inactivity outdoors while keeping the inside comfortable. There are 8 steps to follow, and each one directly protects your investment, safety, and daily comfort.

1. Insulation

Fit thermal window covers, foam inserts in roof vents, and insulated mats. Skirt the base to block drafts and lift tanks off metal floors with foam to prevent heat loss. Plug floor gaps to minimize conduction and reduce condensation.

2. Heating Selection

Match heat source to your power supply. Diesel heaters give efficient dry warmth, propane is convenient but adds humidity, and electric works well when mains power is available. Always run with CO and smoke detectors active.

3. Plumbing Freeze Protection

Keep interior at least 10 °C when away. Use heated hoses, 12 V pads for underslung water tanks, and wrap drain valves. This prevents residual water from freezing in exposed lines.

4. Moisture and Ventilation

Stand soft furnishing cushions upright, use anti-damp crystals, and ensure steady flow of air. Ventilation avoids mould growth and reduces water ingress around seals.

5. Power Strategy

Keep the leisure battery charged. Use a smart charger on mains power or solar panels of at least 40 W. Never allow voltage to drop below 12.0 V.

6. Tires and Traction

Fit winter tyr if traveling, carry a tyre chain set, and rotate tire position time to time during long stays. Maintain pressure slightly above spec to prevent flat spots.

7. Safety Monitors

Install carbon monoxide alarms and test electrical equipment. Check gas detectors and ensure a fire extinguisher is in date and accessible.

8. Snow and Access Routines

Clear roof weight promptly to avoid stress on seals. Keep paths to doors free and accessible, and use olive oil on rubber seals to prevent sticking in freezing conditions.

How Do You Insulate and Eliminate Thermal Bridges Inside a Motorhome?

Insulating properly means stopping heat from escaping through weak points, often called thermal bridges. The first layer of defense is reflective window covers that reduce condensation and trap warmth. Add foam inserts to roof vents and insulated mats across floors, especially around drain valves and mains power access points. Fit skirting along the lower body to block cold drafts and maintain stable wash water temperatures. Pay special attention to tanks and pipes that sit on metal floors, raise them on foam blocks to cut conduction. Even small gaps around the drain tap or fuel tank area should be sealed. 

Which Heating Options Work Best for Winter Living (Diesel, Propane, Electric)?

The best heating option depends on your setup and whether mains power is consistently available. Electric heaters work well if you’re plugged into shore power at a facility like green hill farm caravan and camping park, but they demand careful load management with other electrical equipment. Diesel heating provides efficient, dry warmth and is ideal when you want to reduce interior humidity, though installation can be more complex. Propane offers convenient heat through systems like a Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler, but it adds moisture to the air, requiring extra ventilation to maintain healthy flow of air. No matter the fuel source, you must install and regularly test carbon monoxide and smoke detectors. Keeping a backup method, such as a small electric heater or portable diesel unit, ensures redundancy and comfort even during prolonged inactivity in freezing weather.

How Do You Adapt the Plumbing for All-Season Use (Heated Hoses, Tank Heaters)?

Heated hoses ensure your flush water supply tank stays liquid even during prolonged inactivity, while 12 V heating pads on the water tank and gray/black tanks guard against ice buildup. You should insulate exposed lines, add foam around the drain valve and drain tap, and protect fittings on the Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler. In cold regions, keep utility bays slightly warmed with a small thermostatically controlled heater. Some setups use recirculation pumps to prevent residual water from stagnating in pipes. Always leave gray valves closed unless draining to an external container during deep cold, as open valves encourage water ingress and blockages.

How Do You Manage Moisture, Condensation, and Mould in Winter?

Managing interior humidity is essential to prevent mould growth, protect soft furnishing, and stop water ingress from damaging the structure. You should aim to keep relative humidity between 40–50% while balancing heat with steady flow of air. Open a roof vent slightly and a low floor vent to promote natural circulation from floor to ceiling. Using mains power, you can run a dehumidifier time to time, but never seal the cabin completely, as trapped moisture damages woodwork and electrical equipment. Anti-damp crystals or refillable moisture absorbers add extra defense during prolonged inactivity. Lift cushions, stand them upright, and cover with a breathable cover to reduce condensation on contact surfaces. If cooking inside, use a carbon filter in the galley vent and run the fan. 

How Should You Ventilate Effectively in Winter?

Effective ventilation ensures a continuous flow of air that prevents condensation and mould growth on soft furnishing, seals, and inside cupboards. You should keep the gas drop vents clear and never tape them off, even in freezing conditions. A roof fan running on low duty provides constant air movement, while a brief higher-speed purge time to time refreshes the entire cabin. Combine this with a low floor vent to balance warm and cold layers, protecting the water system and electrical equipment from hidden moisture damage. Even under a breathable cover, controlled ventilation prevents water ingress from turning into structural problems over prolonged inactivity.

Do Vapour Barriers Help Inside a Motorhome?

Vapour barriers can help in very cold storage, but only when applied as a continuous, properly sealed layer on the warm side of the insulation. If poorly installed, they trap residual water and condensation against cold skins, accelerating mould growth and water ingress. In practice, most motorhomes already rely on targeted insulation rather than full vapor-sealed assemblies. You should only consider them when re-lining walls or floors, using compatible materials that allow safe flow of air around fixtures such as the Truma ultrastore boiler, carver boiler, and flush water supply tank.

When Should You Use a Dehumidifier in a Motorhome?

A dehumidifier is best used as a temporary control method when you have reliable mains power and want to lower humidity quickly. You should always combine gentle background heat with dehumidification to prevent cold surfaces from causing recurring condensation. Empty the water tank of the dehumidifier daily and ensure the drain tap or hose directs collected wash water safely. For periods of prolonged inactivity, desiccant crystals or small moisture absorbers are more practical, especially when you cannot monitor the system at green hill farm caravan and camping park or another storage site.

How Do You Manage Batteries, Solar, and Electrical Loads in Extreme Cold?

A leisure battery, especially LiFePO₄, should never be charged below 0 °C without internal heaters or pre-warming, as cold charging causes permanent damage. You should budget for shorter daylight hours and weaker PV output, meaning mains power or a generator may be necessary for backup. When using a generator, follow proper etiquette at green hill farm caravan and camping park or other sites, keep run times short and noise low. Prioritize essential loads while postponing non-critical use of the shower head or wash water pumps. Rotate your charging methods to keep the drain valve of your power strategy balanced and your batteries healthy through prolonged inactivity.

What Tyre Upgrades and Traction Gear Help for Winter Driving?

Winter safety starts with proper traction. You should always fit winter tyr for snow regions, as they remain flexible in sub-freezing temperatures and shorten braking distances. A dedicated second wheel set makes seasonal swaps easier and prolongs tread life. Carry essential gear: a tyre chain set matched to your wheel size, traction boards to free the vehicle from icy ruts, and a compact shovel for clearing snow around the fuel tank or underbody. Keep your towing eye and jack accessible, not buried under soft furnishing or stored deep behind the toilet cassette. Regularly check pressures, as cold reduces PSI, and inflate to recommended levels.

What Safety Accessories Should Be Prioritized (CO/Smoke Detectors, Monitors)?

Living in a motorhome through winter increases reliance on heating appliances, making detectors essential. You should always install a CO detector and a smoke alarm, tested monthly with the flush button, and replace batteries frequently. An LPG or flammable-gas detector adds protection around the Truma ultrastore boiler, carver boiler, and fuel tank regulators. Pair these with a compact fire extinguisher and a fire blanket stored within arm’s reach of the kitchen and toilet system. Keep spare batteries ready, even if mains power is available, so detectors stay active during outages. With these measures, you reduce risks of water ingress, mould growth, or electrical equipment faults escalating into emergencies. 

How Do You Clear Snow Safely and Get Unstuck?

Snow management is vital when living in a motorhome through winter, as buildup can strain the roof and trap you on site. Use a long-handle snow broom to clear panels, vents, and solar without damaging seals or the Truma ultrastore boiler flue. Always climb a ladder safely, wearing winter tyr boots with good grip. Around the axles, shovel drifts away to reduce resistance and check that the drain valve or drain tap is not buried. If traction fails, deploy tyre chain sets or traction boards beneath the drive wheels, and carry a compact shovel for emergencies. Sometimes, the safest option is to wait out heavy storms at green hill farm caravan and camping park or another secure location until roads are cleared.

Where Can You Store Skis and Wet Gear in a Small Space?

Skis, boots, and wet gear require careful planning to avoid water ingress and mould growth inside the motorhome. You can mount a rear-door storage box to keep skis outside the living area, leaving the soft furnishing safe from drips. The shower head area doubles as a drying cabinet when fitted with drip trays or tubs beneath boots. Modular bins and stackable crates keep gloves, helmets, and poles organized. Ideally, create a wet zone near the entry, with mats to capture wash water before it spreads.

How Do You Manage Wet Clothes and Shoes Inside?

Managing wet gear indoors prevents mould growth, damp odors, and premature wear on fabrics. Install a ceiling-mounted drying line to hang clothes where warm flow of air circulates, powered by a diesel heater or mains power fan. Protect seats and cushions with a breathable cover or light plastic sheets, so residual water doesn’t soak into soft furnishing. Near the entry door, place dedicated drip mats or trays for boots and shoes, catching wash water before it reaches the leisure battery compartment or toilet system. Accelerate drying with gentle, dry heat from the carver boiler or an electric heater. 

What Small Comforts Improve Winter Life on Board?

Daily life in a motorhome feels warmer when you add small comforts that reduce heat loss and improve mood. Thick rugs insulate floors against cold conduction, while slippers and warm blankets keep you cozy on soft furnishing. Thermal curtains or window film reduce water ingress from condensation, especially near the wash water system or flush water supply tank. Hot-water bottles provide targeted warmth, while insulated mugs keep drinks hot when the flow of air inside is chilly. Switching to low-glare lighting helps your eyes adjust to long nights, creating a calm environment during prolonged inactivity.

Which Campsites Are Open Year-Round, and How Can You Find Them?

Finding year-round sites requires careful checking before you travel. Use search filters for “open all year,” then verify hook-ups for electrical equipment, gas availability, and reliable road access. Sites with snow clearance policies and clear rules on winter tyr or tyre chain use make arrivals easier in bad weather. Look for camps with hard standings, a drain tap nearby for your water tank, and safe refilling of the fuel tank. At reputable sites like green hill farm caravan and camping park, you often find a balance of amenities and security, including sold secure gate systems. 

Which Is Better for Winterizing Water Lines — RV Antifreeze or Compressed Air?

RV antifreeze generally provides the most reliable freeze-burst protection, while compressed air offers convenience in spring but leaves pockets of residual water if not done perfectly. Both methods aim to protect your water system from freeze damage, but their suitability depends on your climate, setup, and personal preference.

Propylene glycol (PG) antifreeze, rated to −25 to −50 °F, ensures fixtures, the flush water supply tank, and toilet system remain safe through prolonged inactivity. You usually need 2–5 gallons for a typical motorhome, plus more if appliances like a dishwasher or clothes washer are connected. A heater bypass saves about 30 liters, minimizing waste. Cleanup in spring involves flushing PG through taps and the shower head until wash water runs clear.

Compressed air uses 20–30 PSI (never exceed 50–60 PSI) to clear lines via a drain valve or drain tap. While quick and low-cost, it can miss low points in the water tank or leave moisture in fixtures. That’s why some owners choose a hybrid to blow out lines first, then protecting traps and fixtures with a gallon of PG antifreeze.

Method	Protection Level	PSI/Rating	Volume Needed	Appliance Risk	Spring Clean-Up	Cost	Time	Typical Use Case
PG Antifreeze	High	−25/−50 °F	2–5 gal (+1/major appl.)	Low	Moderate flush	Low–moderate	1–2 h	Best for hard freezes
Compressed Air	Medium	20–30 PSI	0 gal	Higher on coils	Minimal flush	Very low	0.5–1 h	Mild freezes/short lay-ups
Hybrid	High	Both	~1–2 gal	Low	Low–moderate	Low–moderate	~1–2 h	Balanced, popular approach

What Tools and Supplies Are Required for Motorhome Winterization?

To protect your water tank, plumbing, and electrical equipment from winter damage, you need both specialized tools and general supplies. These items help you manage residual water, seal against water ingress, and prepare your motorhome for prolonged inactivity.

Here’s a comprehensive list of essentials:

• RV PG antifreeze: 2–5 gallons depending on your water system and appliances.
• Pump pickup hose or winterize kit: Allows direct antifreeze feed into the lines.
• Blowout plug: Connects an air compressor to the drain valve or drain tap.
• Air compressor: With regulator set at 20–30 PSI for safe line clearing.
• Deep socket wrench: To remove the heater anode or plug from the Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler.
• Personal protective equipment: Gloves and eye protection when handling fluids.
• Ramps and chocks: Stabilize the vehicle and relieve tire stress when using winter tyr or tyre chain.
• Sealant and silicone grease: Maintains roof joints, window seals, and shower head fittings.
• Anti-damp crystals: Reduce mould growth and protect soft furnishing.
• Wheel covers and breathable cover: Guard tires and bodywork during storage.
• Snow broom, shovel, traction boards, scraper, ladder: For snow and ice management.
• CO/smoke and gas detectors: Essential safety monitors with test flush button.
• Smart charger or trickle charger: Keeps the leisure battery healthy during downtime.
• Multimeter: For checking mains power connections and monitoring electrical loads.

How Much Does Motorhome Winterization Cost?

For DIY, you can expect to spend around $50–$100 for the essentials. Propylene glycol antifreeze costs about $3–$6 per gallon, and you’ll usually need 2–5 gallons depending on the size of your water system and appliances like a flush water supply tank or toilet system. Hoses, blowout plugs, and adapters range from $10–$30, while a smart charger for the leisure battery can add $25–$100. Seasonal extras like a breathable cover range between $150–$400+, with optional tools such as a snow broom or tyre chain running $15–$200. Small devices like CO or gas detectors cost $20–$60 each.

Professional winterization can range from $150 to over $400 depending on labor time, location, and whether extras such as sealant work or mould growth prevention measures are included. 

How Do You De-Winterize a Motorhome in Spring?

De-winterizing restores your motorhome’s systems after months of protection. The main steps involve flushing fluids, reconnecting parts, and checking safety systems. In total, there are nine essential steps to follow.

1. Reconnect filters and shower head: Refit carbon filter cartridges, reconnect the shower hose, and check fittings.
2. Fill and flush the water system: Run wash water through all taps until residual water and antifreeze are gone.
3. Test all fixtures and pump: Operate the flush button on the toilet system, check the toilet cassette, and ensure flow of air in the Truma ultrastore boiler and carver boiler.
4. Sanitize the water tank: Add a mild bleach solution, circulate, and rinse for safe drinking use.
5. Close all drain valves and drain taps: Ensure no leaks remain open before pressurizing.
6. Reset heater bypass and refit anode or plug: Secure the water heater for normal use.
7. Pressurize and inspect for water ingress: Watch connections for drips or mould growth.
8. Reinstall and charge the leisure battery: Use a smart charger or mains power.
9. Check tires, fuel tank, and electrical equipment: Verify pressures, refill fluids, and confirm detectors work.

Can You Winterize a Sprinter-Based Motorhome Any Differently?

Yes. Although, winterizing a Sprinter-based motorhome follows the same steps as any other platform, you need to account for a few unique details. Diesel engines require attention to the fuel tank and DEF system; DEF should be kept fresh, and prolonged idling should be avoided to prevent crystallization. Tight service bays on Sprinter chassis can make access to the drain valve, drain tap, or under-seat leisure battery more challenging, so plan your work carefully. Modern electrical equipment such as smart alternators and battery management systems also require consideration when connecting a smart charger to mains power. You should insulate under-seat battery compartments and maintain steady flow of air in service bays to avoid water ingress or mould growth during prolonged inactivity.

Can You Winterize a Motorhome Without Using RV Antifreeze?

Yes, you can winterize a motorhome without RV antifreeze by using compressed air to clear the water system, but this method has limitations. By connecting a blowout plug to the drain valve and applying 20–30 PSI (never exceeding 50–60 PSI), you can force residual water out of lines, taps, and appliances. This works best in mild climates where deep freezes are rare. However, antifreeze should still be poured into all drain traps, the toilet cassette, and seals in the toilet system to prevent freeze cracks. A hybrid approach, which is air blowout plus a gallon of propylene glycol in key points offers safer coverage, reducing mould growth and protecting against water ingress during prolonged inactivity.

Can You Winterize Your Motorhome Yourself or Should You Hire a Professional?

Yes, you can winterize your motorhome yourself if you follow a careful checklist, but hiring a professional offers peace of mind. DIY is cost-effective, with supplies like antifreeze, hoses, and a smart charger often totaling under $100. It also lets you learn about your own water tank, leisure battery, and electrical equipment. However, mistakes such as leaving residual water in the flush button system or forgetting to close a drain tap can lead to expensive freeze damage. Professionals, on the other hand, charge $150–$400, saving you time and reducing risk. Some owners also prefer pro service because a documented inspection may support warranty or insurance claims.

What Final Checklist Should You Use Before You Close the Door for Winter?

A winterization checklist is your final safeguard before locking the motorhome for prolonged inactivity. It ensures that every major system like water, electrical, fuel, interior, and security, is protected against freezing, water ingress, and theft. Keeping this as a one-page, printable sheet helps you stay consistent and reduces the chance of overlooking a small but critical task like closing a drain valve or checking the steering wheel lock.

Here’s a list of what you can do before closing your motorhome for winter;

• Water system: Drain water tank, open drain tap, bypass Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler, flush water supply tank, add PG to toilet system and toilet cassette.
• Electrical equipment: Disconnect mains power safely, maintain leisure battery with smart charger, test CO/smoke detectors.
• Engine/fuel: Fill fuel tank, add stabilizer, check fluids, run engine briefly.
• Exterior/interior: Wash exterior, cover with breathable cover, ventilate soft furnishing, use anti-damp crystals.
• Security: Lock doors, set steering wheel lock, record serials.

How Does Motorhome Winterization Affect Motorhome Value?

Consistent winterization directly protects both mechanical systems and the interior environment, which translates into higher resale value.

When you keep detailed servicing logs and photos of your water system, fuel tank, and soft furnishing care, a buyer gains confidence that the vehicle was stored responsibly during prolonged inactivity.

Insurance providers also recognize that frost damage, mould growth, or water ingress are typically excluded, so documented preventive work lowers your risk of denied claims.

A motorhome that smells clean, has a stain-free ceiling, a healthy leisure battery, and a working flush button on the toilet system immediately signals proper care. Even a breathable cover or visible tyre chain in storage photos suggests diligence.

What Pro Tips and Common Mistakes Should You Avoid When Winterizing Your Motorhome?

Winterizing your motorhome is as much about preventing mistakes as it is about taking the right steps. A few quick wins can save you from costly repairs later, while avoiding common pitfalls keeps your water system, fuel tank, and leisure battery in top shape during prolonged inactivity.

Quick wins:

• Label valves: Mark your drain valve, drain tap, and heater bypass clearly to avoid confusion in spring.
• Use a pump hose: A short pickup hose saves PG antifreeze and makes wash water flushing easier.
• Sticky notes: Place reminders near the outside shower head or flush button so you don’t miss hidden fixtures.
• Mesh on vents: Prevent pests and reduce water ingress while still allowing flow of air.
• Dashboard note: Remind yourself to reset pressures, wheel chocks, and the Truma ultrastore boiler bypass.

Pitfalls: Diluting antifreeze, over-pressurizing with compressed air, forgetting traps and the toilet cassette, sealing all vents (leading to mould growth), or leaving the handbrake on instead of chocking.

Never Dilute Antifreeze

RV antifreeze is designed to provide freeze-burst protection at its rated strength, often between −25 °F and −50 °F. If you dilute it with residual water from the water tank or lines, that protection is reduced, leaving your pipes, toilet system, or carver boiler vulnerable to damage.

A weakened mixture may slush sooner and expand, leading to cracks or water ingress in fittings. You should always purge as much wash water as possible through the drain tap and drain valve before introducing antifreeze into the water system. This ensures the PG solution reaches fixtures like the flush water supply tank, shower head, and toilet cassette at full concentration. Skipping this step or adding plain water as a “top-up” undermines the entire winterization process and risks expensive spring repairs.

Should You Pour Antifreeze Into Drains and Traps?

Yes, you should always pour antifreeze into every drain and trap, even if you blow out the water system with compressed air. These low points naturally collect residual water, which can freeze, expand, and crack the plumbing. For sinks, showers, and the toilet system, pour about half a cup (120 ml) into each P-trap or shower trap, making sure it flows into the bend where wash water normally sits. Add enough to cover the seal in the toilet cassette and a small amount in the flush water supply tank if the carbon filter is removed. This not only prevents ice damage but also keeps seals from drying out during prolonged inactivity. 

How to Bypass the Pump and Heater Correctly?

Bypassing the pump and water heater is essential so you don’t waste gallons of antifreeze filling the Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler. A quick siphon kit connected to the pump inlet lets you draw directly from an antifreeze jug, while the bypass valves isolate the heater from the rest of the water system. Set the valves to route flow around the heater, then open each faucet and the shower head until pink fluid runs out. Don’t forget the flush button for the toilet system and the flush water supply tank. Once done, close the drain valve and drain tap so no residual water enters again. A final test—turning the pump on briefly—confirms the antifreeze circulates only where it should, leaving the heater safely empty.

What Steps Are Commonly the Hardest—and How to Do Them Right?

Getting antifreeze to every line can be tricky because residual water pockets resist displacement. The fix is to open each outlet one at a time, from the highest shower head down to the lowest drain tap, until the flow is fully pink. Valve positions around the heater also confuse many; labeling them before storage saves you time to time. Outside showers, carbon filter housings, and washer loops are easy to forget, yet leaving wash water in them risks water ingress and cracks. A simple sticky note reminder on the dashboard helps prevent overlooked fixtures. Even tasks like adjusting tire pressures or isolating the leisure battery become easier if you treat them as part of a checklist, not afterthoughts. 

What Advanced Tricks Can Simplify Winterization?

A few advanced techniques can streamline the whole process. 

• Use a short suction hose: Insert it directly into the antifreeze jug at the pump inlet, which reduces waste and speeds delivery. 
• Label valve positions: Mark drain valve handles, bypass settings, and pump connections so you don’t second-guess next season. 
• Protect vents with mesh: This prevents pests and ensures a steady flow of air during prolonged inactivity. 
• Leave reminders: Place a steering wheel lock note to confirm tasks like securing the toilet cassette or draining the fuel tank stabilizer were done. These tricks may seem small, but they minimize confusion, save antifreeze, and reduce labour. 

What Vulnerable Components Need Extra Protection?

Some parts of the motorhome are especially at risk from freezing or neglect. The outside shower head is often overlooked, but it contains residual water that can split fittings if not drained or filled with antifreeze. Filter housings and carbon filter cartridges need to be removed, dried, and stored separately to avoid mould growth. Appliances like ice makers, washers, or dishwashers have hidden loops where wash water lingers—these must receive antifreeze or be blown clear with compressed air. Even the toilet cassette seal should be lubricated lightly, sometimes with olive oil, to prevent cracking over prolonged inactivity. 

How Long Does It Take to Winterize a Motorhome?

For most DIY owners, it takes about 2–4 hours to fully winterize a motorhome. Once you’ve practiced the process a few times, it often feels like “a few hours” of steady work rather than a long day. The exact time depends on whether you simply drain the water system and pump antifreeze through the lines or add extra tasks like deep cleaning, inspecting seals for water ingress, or fitting a breathable cover. Pros who service multiple vehicles regularly often complete the job more quickly, but even then, care is taken to check the drain valve, secure the toilet cassette, and disconnect the leisure battery from mains power. If you add optional steps like treating soft furnishing or fitting tyre chain sets, expect the upper end of the timeframe.

How Much Does Motorhome Winterization Cost?

Winterizing your motorhome usually costs less than the repairs you’d face from a cracked Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler. In the UK, you can expect to spend around £10–£48 on PG antifreeze (10–20 L). A blowout plug costs £8–£15, and pickup hoses or fittings are £10–£25. If you borrow an air compressor, you save money, but buying one may run £60–£150. Protecting your motorhome with a breathable cover ranges from £150–£500+, while CO/smoke/gas detectors are £15–£50 each. A smart charger for the leisure battery costs £25–£90, and a dehumidifier is £60–£180. Extras like anti-damp crystals run £5–£15, while snow tools and boards can be £20–£150.

For reference, DIY basics in the US typically run $50–$100 for supplies. That includes antifreeze, fittings, and consumables, with higher costs for covers or detectors. By comparison, professional winterization adds labor on top of materials but can save you time and reduce risk.

Conclusion

Winterizing your motorhome only pays when you are consistent. With a simple checklist and just half a day’s effort, you can protect your water tank, drain tap, fuel tank, and even the soft furnishing that makes life on board comfortable. Doing this now saves you from frozen pipes, mould growth, dead leisure batteries, and other costly surprises when your motorhome sits in prolonged inactivity.

Whether you go with PG antifreeze, compressed air, or a mix of both, the trick is to match the method to your climate and double-check that every valve, shower head, and toilet system is covered. Add in smart habits, like fitting a breathable cover, keeping a steady flow of air, and caring for batteries, tires, and seals alongside the plumbing and you’ll not only avoid winter damage but also roll into spring with everything ready to go. It’s about peace of mind, value, and making sure you get to enjoy the road again without setbacks.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can You Winterize a Motorhome Without Antifreeze?

Yes, you can winterize using only compressed air, though it is best suited to mild climates or short lay-ups. After draining the water tank and opening each drain tap, connect an air compressor set to 20–30 PSI to the city inlet. Re-open every faucet, shower head, and flush button until only air exits. This removes most residual water but can leave pockets in tankless heaters, coils, or the toilet system. For safety, still pour a small amount of PG antifreeze into each P-trap and toilet cassette seal. 

Can I Camp In A Winterized RV? 

Yes. You can run it “dry” by carrying drinking jugs and using site facilities, or re-commission the water system if temperatures rise.

Do I Need To Run The Engine Monthly?

It’s better to drive until warm rather than idle. That keeps the fuel tank, battery, and electrical equipment healthier.

Do I Need to Fill the Heater with PG? 

No. You bypass the Truma ultrastore boiler or carver boiler so antifreeze never fills them.

Is PG Safe? 

Yes. Propylene glycol is non-toxic, but flush wash water lines and the flush water supply tank in spring to remove taste.